Here, Charles Steevenson of Charles
Steevenson Wines Ltd, who supplies the Ring of Bells with wines, pulls no punches in the defence
of the much-maligned Chardonnay grape.
ABC – have you heard these
letters used when perusing a wine list and discussing a Chardonnay? ABC – it’s
shorthand for ‘Anything But Chardonnay’!
Well, I say what a load of
tosh! Chardonnay is the backbone of some of the most sublime
Chardonnay’s unfair
reputation only developed when wines from the New World invaded our shelves, wines
such as those of Australia, Chile, California and the like. Alas, these wines
were often created from indifferent fruit that was, in turn, enhanced by oak
integration. It is the often clumsy over-use of oak that became so dominant and
unwelcome. The assumption to many is that Chardonnay is always naturally oaky
and toasty – wrong!
This most classic and noble
of all grapes is cultivated in all the wine growing regions around the globe.
These regions, like the wines they yield, can be diverse and varied. While
Chardonnay is one grape variety there are many different clones that have
developed to suit the all important and very individual growing conditions. This,
in turn, determines the size of yields, quality and, subsequently, the price. How
very different are the styles of green-tight and highly acidic wines of say
Chablis to an equivalent unwooded wine from Chile or South Africa.
While all white wines need
to be punctuated by uplifting, balanced acidity, the real tangible difference
will show itself in the texture, weight, structure and finishing persistence
the wine can offer. Texture is often enhanced by the vigorous use of wood but
this may well mask the real identity and subtlety of the wine. Also, the age of
the vines will play an important part in not only the size of yields produced
and concentration of the finished wines but, more importantly to the customer,
affect the cost.
At the Ring of Bells there
are three new key Chardonnay contenders to tempt you. Firstly, the Macon–Chardonnay, Talmard 2011, from
the Maconnaise region of Southern Burgundy. Made in the village of Chardonnay,
from the Chardonnay grape, rich honey/lemon, no wood, so rewarding and typical
of the region.
Then there is the Rustenberg Chardonnay 2011 from one of
the top estates in South Africa; both the bouquet and palate display intense
vanilla/toasty wood notes with a hint of lime and crème brûlée on the finish.
Our third option, Domaine Grauzan Chardonnay 2012, Vin de
Pays d’Oc. Made with fruit sourced from the very south of France, this wine is
more reminiscent of a Maconnaise wine, slightly honeyed fruit with a pleasing
citrus finish, bold in weight yet, again, with no intrusive oak influence.
Charles Steevenson Wines
Ltd. The Wine Warehouse, 11 Plymouth Road Industrial Estate, Tavistock, Devon
PL19 9QN Our warehouse shop in Tavistock is open: Monday to Friday, 9.00am –
5.30pm and Saturday, 9.00am – 1.00pm
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